Balanced Reportage

Maingalapar (Hello)

We are at the end of the Myanmar leg, resting back in Yangon- sometimes you need a holiday to recover from your travels.

Last night, laying in bed, the earth moved. Not in a spiritual, intellectual, bowel or indeed sexual way, but initially physically and then emotionally. We were five floors up in a three star hotel when the earthquake struck. It was followed by a city-wide black out. The initial sense of misgiving gave way to hopelessness and then pondering the tenuous grip we have on this mortal coil.

A fine mindset to reflect on the downsides of Myanmar.

This is in the interest of balance in this blog series. Before embarking, I must stress that the overriding experience is a very good one. The awe of the physical environment, matched with the warmth of the people, far outweighs any downsides.

-animal welfare. “Avert your eyes” I call to my distressed travel companion everywhere we go. PJ and Henry (cats), Zig and Harry (Schnauzzers) back home have clearly entered Buddha’s animal nirvana, if this is the baseline. The deeds in their past lives must have been damn good ones to be born into their current worlds.

-pollution. Plastic, bloody plastic, with little sensitivity as to its consequence. The locals wrap everything liberally in plastic and discard remnants without thought. Railway lines, roads and waterways- it matters little. On the upside I have read editorials advocating a green consciousness and in Bagan there were signs encouraging: “no plastics in our classics”. There was evidence of some success here.

-politics. This has been covered in some detail. In essence a rich political environment, finely balanced with some undemocratic features. I’m not advocating a one size fits all. Each country has to develop its own governing system according to its unique circumstance. This is one to watch.

-minorities. Could be read in relation to the above. This is a nation rich in diversity- it is a “Republic of the Union of Mianmar”. Nomenclature and practice don’t always match.

-spiders

-hygiene. The physical attrition rate of the Intrepids was pretty high, but this was eclipsed by the spirit of adventure. Seeing the look of abject fear on pale faces, covered in cold sweat of fellow Intrepids with iron clenched butt cheeks, a spooked sphincter and their bodies desire to eject on encountering even the very slightest of potholes brings with it a mixture of great empathy, relief (pardon the pun) that is not you and fear it might be soon.

-Phlegm management. Continual Hawking up is extremely discordant to European ears. Watching the results, plagues the mind. “Look away, look away… damn did I really need to see that?” I couldn’t get a lyric from Perth’s very own folk poet Dave (from the Suburbs) out of my mind:

” Cruising down the highway, looking for a place to spit,

Tried to squeeze it out the window, knew it wouldn’t fit”

-earthquakes

Kyaayyjuutainpaartal (thanks) for the memories Myanmar- some I’d like expunged, but most retained.

KG.

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